BASF launches a duo-peptide complex that diminishes signs of aging

Care Creations’ new product reduces the appearance of wrinkles and firms skin in as early as three weeks.

Aging is a fact of life, looking your age is not, according to Dr. Howard Murad. And the anti-aging market is living proof of that notion. It’s the fastest growing market in the skin care industry.

The global anti-aging business is estimated to be growing at CAGR of 5.8%, to reach $331.41 billion by 2021, according to Orbis Research. The future growth of the anti-aging market is said to rely on the advancement and technological development with enhanced efficacy and safety of anti-aging products.

If there’s one place where women over 40 don’t mind spending a large amount of money, it’s the anti-aging space. But they do expect that product or service to deliver the promised benefit. And BASF paid attention.

BASF’s Personal Care business unit conducted a study, surveying 235 women, aged 40-73, and found that 60% of them wanted to look 5-10 years younger, while 80% of respondents expected a quality product to make them look 5-10 years younger.

“When we look in the mirror, we compare our current appearance to a self-image from the past. Most of us aspire to look younger - we wanted to understand how much younger,” said Manasi Chavan, Marketing Manager, Face Care/Personal Care, North America, BASF.

At the same token, while looking 5-10 years younger is the goal, many women prefer a less invasive method to solutions that entail plastic surgery or dermal fillers.

To meet these consumer expectations, BASF Care Creations developed Replexium, a skin-bioavailable synergistic complex of two patented BASF peptides. This peptide blend has been shown to work on various layers of the skin by targeting specific proteoglycans (complex proteins), as well as collagen XVII. These dermal and epidermal components provide the skin with important biomechanical properties, which decrease with age.

To understand its clinical benefit, BASF evaluated the efficacy of the complex in a study of more than 30 female volunteers between the ages of 45 and 65 with visible crow’s feet, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds. The subjects were selected based on their low dermal density that was assessed by ultrasound, and their self-described losses in skin elasticity and firmness. The volunteers applied a 2% Replexium and 3% peptide benchmark emulsion twice daily in a randomized split-face study for 56 days (eight weeks). Upon subsequent observation, the product visibly reduced the appearance of forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet and nasolabial folds by 11% after only three weeks, and 23% after eight weeks. It also improved dermal density by 21% within three weeks, significantly faster than the industry’s peptide-benchmark.

“On many parameters, Replexium outperforms other well-known active peptides on the market,” said David Herault, R&D Global Director for BASF Beauty Creations. “It is our first solution that addresses all three major facial wrinkles, as well as skin firming and should prove ideal for high-performance skin products."

Consumers tend to seek safe, effective, affordable and fast-acting cosmetic solutions to address their skin concerns and formulators would like to use globally compliant ingredients to fulfil this need. The complex addresses these needs.

Replexium launched at the 2018 New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day in mid-May. Industry response to the product has been positive, with first orders received within a month post-launch.

“Customers, including an indie-brand contract manufacturer and a top consumer conglomerate, have already shown great interest in the product, especially the ‘gain seven years’ younger skin’ claim,” added Chavan. “They are paying attention to the fast-acting results of this duo-peptide complex.”

In-depth information about Replexium, including the in-vivo and in-vitro studies can be found here.

Published by Anna Spiewak.

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